Big Trip across Africa

I've solo backpacked Kenya (but in 1994), Egypt and Morocco. I was pleasantly surprised by Egypt; I was expecting considerable hassle and an overly touristy destination, but save for several marriage proposals and offers of up to a million camels, it wasn't actually that bad. The hassle was far worse in the other countries I went on to that trip (especially Ethiopia). Some good hostels and booked the overnight train to Luxor and back. The historical sites were well worth it, with tombs in the Valley of the Kings with stunning walls of hieroglyphs and Dendara temple with its secret rooms and passageways a highlight.

Morocco didn't grab me; it didn't compare to other Middle Eastern countries I've visited and was very touristy. However, the train system is outstanding, especially the limited express train from Casablanca to Tangier. If only Australia had an intercity train network anything like that ... The tram systems in Casablanca and Rabat were also great for getting around. I was able to take trains and buses from Casablanca through Rabat-Sale, Tangier, Chefchaouen, Fez, Essaouira, Marrakech, Taghazout and Agadir. I had to hire a car and driver to get to the desert and some other places I wanted to visit, including Ifrane, Erfoud and Zagora, as well as Ceuta. The drive from Erfoud to Zagora was particularly scenic, and from Tangier to Ceuta (the hostel in Tangier organised me a great driver) was pretty spectacular, with views across to Spain and Gibraltar. I saved a lot of money going through a Spanish company (through a cheap riad in Fez) and taking a Spanish-speaking driver, as the English-speaking companies I tried charged too much and forced you onto set routes.

I found Ouarzazate, Fez and Marrakech rather overrated and the desert camps simply not worth it. Using their 4WDs to access the camps (which are all right next to each other) is very expensive and the Sahara in Morocco is unattractive. It's so much better to see it from Ghadames (Libya) or see deserts elsewhere. Essaouira is very nice and the highlight for me was Tangier. If you like long early morning runs, Rabat, Casablanca, Tangier (along the coastal promenades) and Marrakech (along the central red walls) are ideal.

Tunisia is a priority for me; hope to get there soonish and see Carthage and other historical places :).

Replies

Raquel Fenby May 17, 2025 at 2:00am

I've solo backpacked Kenya (but in 1994), Egypt and Morocco. I was pleasantly surprised by Egypt; I was expecting considerable hassle and an overly touristy destination, but save for several marriage proposals and offers of up to a million camels, it wasn't actually that bad. The hassle was far worse in the other countries I went on to that trip (especially Ethiopia). Some good hostels and booked the overnight train to Luxor and back. The historical sites were well worth it, with tombs in the Valley of the Kings with stunning walls of hieroglyphs and Dendara temple with its secret rooms and passageways a highlight.

Morocco didn't grab me; it didn't compare to other Middle Eastern countries I've visited and was very touristy. However, the train system is outstanding, especially the limited express train from Casablanca to Tangier. If only Australia had an intercity train network anything like that ... The tram systems in Casablanca and Rabat were also great for getting around. I was able to take trains and buses from Casablanca through Rabat-Sale, Tangier, Chefchaouen, Fez, Essaouira, Marrakech, Taghazout and Agadir. I had to hire a car and driver to get to the desert and some other places I wanted to visit, including Ifrane, Erfoud and Zagora, as well as Ceuta. The drive from Erfoud to Zagora was particularly scenic, and from Tangier to Ceuta (the hostel in Tangier organised me a great driver) was pretty spectacular, with views across to Spain and Gibraltar. I saved a lot of money going through a Spanish company (through a cheap riad in Fez) and taking a Spanish-speaking driver, as the English-speaking companies I tried charged too much and forced you onto set routes.

I found Ouarzazate, Fez and Marrakech rather overrated and the desert camps simply not worth it. Using their 4WDs to access the camps (which are all right next to each other) is very expensive and the Sahara in Morocco is unattractive. It's so much better to see it from Ghadames (Libya) or see deserts elsewhere. Essaouira is very nice and the highlight for me was Tangier. If you like long early morning runs, Rabat, Casablanca, Tangier (along the coastal promenades) and Marrakech (along the central red walls) are ideal.

Tunisia is a priority for me; hope to get there soonish and see Carthage and other historical places :).

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